Wednesday 21 March 2012

Hiking in the High Tatras


 My knees were shaking, and as I slowly started to move forward I wondered how I should stop.  No, I was not at the top of a large mountain looking down at a treacherous slope, but rather at the foot of a small hill that was slightly tilted towards my right, which was the direction that I started to move. While I was still getting use to the heavy boots and ski’s, I finally realized that the sharp pains just above my ankles were the metal ski pant hooks trying to grip my socks.  After slowly lowering myself to the ground to stop, I then had to wait for someone to unlock my boots from the ski.

 Located in the north central part of Slovakia on the borders between Slovakia and Poland, the High Tatras Mountains with 17 peaks, rise 2650 meters (8,700 feet) above the European continent.  The area is well known for winter sports, with ski resorts in Štrbské pleso, and town of Poprad a short distance away. While the temperature was warm 18 (65) degrees in Bratislava, the snow was just perfect for skiing and hiking the beautiful, mountainous terrain located 4 hours by train from the capital.  Arriving mid-day on Friday, the clouds blocked all of the mountain peaks, however, that did not affect exploring the landscape.  Setting out into the designated paths, one could only notice the waist high railings were now at feet level because of the amount of snow that had fallen.  Proceeding further down the narrow and, at times, slippery path, signs warned of the different dangers that lurk.  While I did not need a sign to tell me that 2 meters to my right would be a long fall broken by numerous large trees, surprises could arise from avalanches and falling rocks, to snow covered areas which hide a undercover river.  Each turn of the path revealed new scenery and a beautiful array of snow covered trees, slopes, and a slowly melting waterfall trying to free itself from winter’s wrath.  The night ended with a warm meal after a walk around the frozen lake and cross country ski paths.

 The morning sun peered through the windows early, and you could immediately tell that the clouds had moved away during the night, and revealed the vast mountains in all there might.  It was a perfect day to hit the slopes, and learn to ski.  Although the weather in Chicago is harsh, the land is flat, and I never had the opportunity to snow ski.  While learning to ice stake came naturally, and water skiing great once I finally was able to get up on the ski’s, snow skiing was going to take more patience.  Approaching the crowded and challenging ski facility, I knew my best attempt to learn the correct way was going to be on the small hill passed earlier.  The instructor taught at the right pace, with short lessons about footwork without facing a slope; I also learned how to remove the skis on my own by observing others.  Next came time to tackle the small hill with back and forth turns down to the bottom.  After about two hours, and five falls because of insufficient foot work and balance, I improved my ability to ski and really enjoyed the experience.  I am looking forward to next time and facing one of the higher and longer slopes.  The rest of the afternoon was spent heading up the side of the mountain for beautiful views of the surrounding areas, however, the hike was cut short by the large amounts of snow covering the path signs. 

 Unfortunately Sunday was a bit more cloudy, but the day's challenge involved cross country skiing.  Although, the boots are much more flexible and comfortable, cross country skis are much longer, and thinner than downhill, meaning I feel a couple more times.  Also, Cross country involves a much more effort than downhill which has lifts bring you to the top of the hill and you allow gravity to pull you down.  Cross country requires you to climb hills while in the skis, and use your energy to travel across flat land, or in some cases, the frozen lake.  The purpose is to get exercise using your legs more than your upper body, but I resorted to using my upper body more, and felt the pain the next morning.  Traveling down the steeper, shorter paths was fun, but stopping and turning was much more challenging, which is why I ended up falling more.  The night was spent away from the mountains, in the town of Poprad at a indoor water park and spa, which was very relaxing given the bumps and bruises from the prior two days.

 On the way home, the trip was cut in half with a short stop in the city of Trenčín, about 1.5 hours from Bratislava to tour the local castle and have lunch.  Trenčín castle was built on the site in the 11th century served as a royal guard castle.  The castle, complete with narrow and steep passages, contains numerous artifacts and weapons.  The trip ended with a short train ride back to Bratislava, complete with yogurt covered strawberries, and was very enjoyable.

 Two final notes, my Slovak language learning has taken a few steps in the wrong direction.  While out at dinner and ordering pizza, decided to get some additional toppings.  Instead of ordering onions by saying cibulas, I said uhorka, or cucumbers.  The waitress wondered if I liked the pizza because of all the cucumbers that I put to the side.  Finally, while sitting down for ice cream after returning from skiing, I found RC Cola on the menu.  In all my travels across the US, Europe, Africa, and South America, I have never seen RC Cola outside Chicago and St. Bede’s gym, not even here in Bratislava, so I definitely had to enjoy one while in Central Slovakia.

Photos from High Tatras and Trencin 












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