Friday 20 July 2012

Zipping through Zurich (and Vaduz, Liechtenstein for a passport stamp)


  The evening was cool, and rain continued to fall harder and harder.  As I pressed on down the street toward my hotel, I saw the tram approaching.  Of all places to find an ATM, one would think Switzerland would be the easiest, but at the time when you need one the most, it seems the hardest to locate.  Arriving to the country less than one hour ago, and with no local currency in hand, I decide to ride my luck and hop on the tram.  Unlike the US, or even London and Paris, the central Europe (Switzerland, Austria, Czech Republic, and Slovakia) public transportation system relies on the honor system.  With no gates or turnstiles to pass in order to board, the only requirement is you stamp your ticket at each entry if you do not have a pre-paid monthly or mobile ticket.  The tram was quiet as I boarded to head 3 short stops to my exit.  As we began to move, I notice in the front of the tram a strange person approaching a fellow passenger.  I begin wonder if he is checking the tickets, and frightened by large fines for non-ticket holders, I slowly depart the tram at the next stop, unfortunately 2 stops behind where I should have exited. 

  Located on the northwestern tip of the lake, Zurich is the largest city in Switzerland home to 400,000 people, and an additional 1.5 million in the surrounding area (and equally as many cars as people).  The predominate language in the city is German, with French being spoken more frequently in the western part of the country, and Italian in the southern part of Switzerland.  Apart from watches and army knives, the city is one of the world's largest financial centers nestled between the Alpine Mountains.  While I was not ready to expand my offshore banking into Switzerland, I was looking forward to exploring the lake, surrounding architecture and landscape.  Recently rated the most expensive city in the world, I definitely was given the sense that this was a country where a person could easily drain their large, hidden offshore account in a short time.  Beautiful boats sailing across the lake with the natural beauty of the sky make this a relaxing place.

  While I still covet that illusive Swiss passport stamp, I was not leaving this trip without something.  I decided to take a day tour of the local area, which stopped in the Principality of Liechtenstein.  Rolling, lush green hills with mountain rocky tops, the ride down to the south part of the lake toward the Alps was beautiful.  However, being in the mountain region does have a downside, as the weather can change instantly.  In the summer, a sunny day could turn into a downpour within minutes, then sunlight again a half an hour later.  Stopping along side the hills we did some hiking and found domesticated goats resting, with the exception of the small baby goat, who seemed to have a lot of energy climbing rocks and jumping around.  Entering Vaduz, the capital city of the landlocked alpine country of Liechtenstein bordered by Switzerland to the west and south and by Austria to the east, I immediately proceeded to the small tourist station for a passport stamp.  Unlike their European allies, Liechtenstein is a constitutional monarchy headed by a prince with a population of 35,000, that has the world's lowest external debt, second lowest unemployment rate in the world at 1.5% (Monaco is first), and highest gross domestic product per person in the world.  While the city is nice, it is extremely small, and has only a few shops and restaurants which sit below a large castle at the base of the mountain.


  The weekend ended with a short flight back to Vienna, and a 50 minute bus ride home.  However, Swiss Air definitely made it a little unpleasant; first through extending the flight by circling the airport which is always enjoyable during times of turbulence, but also by forcing me to check my carry-on bag for the second straight time of flying with them, and will probably not fly with them again because of it, even if they provide in-air ice cream.















Wednesday 4 July 2012

Bratislava by Bike


  The paths became narrower, and the waist high vegetation slapped against my legs while rattling the spokes of the wheels.  With each new turn came a more remarkable sight of rolling hills covered by numerous trees.  Riding down steep embankments of rocky terrain with my group of nine other colleagues, I found myself in the middle of the pack (not bad for a person who comes from the flat plains of Chicago), however I became further separated due to the different speeds and aggressiveness of each rider.  Twice approaching the cross roads, I decided to wait for the two others behind me for direction before proceeding.  The mosquitoes were vicious in the shady forests of Bratislava, and the longer you waited, the more they attacked.  Upon arriving to the third cross road of the path and a paved road, being further separated from the group behind me than before, and staying on the “C” path the entire ride, I chose to keep pursing the challenges of the path. 

  Surely I must be on the right path, as my phone remained silent.  Relief that I was on an actual path set in somewhat as two other bikers passed, albeit heading in the opposite direction.  Suddenly, ring, ring…."Bill, where are you?"  I respond with, “I am on the path, where are you?”  "At the bar.Damn, I should have turned at the cross road now back 2 miles.  Now I was in for an additional 10 km of fun, with no water, and darkness falling upon the sky.  While I was in no need of food because I swallowed a couple nice size bugs (I definitely have to learn to ride with my mouth closed), water would be a problem.  Each crossing of a puddle I made a mental note of where I might be able to find something to quench my thirst.  I eventually made it to the end of the path before darkness 30 minutes later, and met my group at the bar where I had a large beer, cold ice tea, and most important, a chocolate ice cream bar waiting for me.  The next weekend, I made sure to purchase a water bottle and holder.

  While the roads and automobile drivers in Slovakia can be aggressive, the bike paths are a whole other world.  Set off apart from the street traffic, Bratislava is surrounded by miles of paths.  From steep tree-lined hills and traitorous rocky mountains, to flat paths surrounded by fields and small lakes (and long the Danube River), there is no shortage of motivation to explore the area on a bicycle.  Arriving in two boxes in mid-spring, I was effectively able to build my city/mountain bike while disregarding the incorrect directions for a 10 speed racing bike I was sent.  I even completed the bike with spare parts!  I was out and about soon after, but this is one instance where I regret living on the 5th floor of a building with a very small elevator, as I must carry up and down the stairs each time.  And unlike the US, the ground floor is actually 0, so it is technically 6 floors in my book.  But the paths are like none other, where I can bike through Slovakia, down to Hungary, and across to Austria, all within a couple hours ride.  You do not even notice when you actually cross over the border to other countries, which seems odd given 23 years ago, these countries were very different.  The routes, only assessable by bike (or roller blades), will take you all the way through to Vienna, and along the path, there are numerous bars and restaurants to re-charge, and also a couple lakes to relax.  My team mentioned the one lake I passed near the Hungary border was a nudist beach; however I failed to notice anything that would have indicated such.

  Biking in Bratislava is definitely enjoyable, and I am really looking forward to exploring Slovakia, and the neighboring countries more throughout the summer and fall.  Even Bob Dylan bikes through Slovakia while on tour (2010).  Since relocating to Europe, I have already lost 7 lbs, and it was not because of my brief attempt at P90X.  But during my recent three week trip back home to visit family and friends, I was able to put back on over 4 lbs with quality Chicago cooking.  Back to the trails.  Happy 4th of July, and I hope to get back to my 2 blogs a month!


Bob Dylan on the Bratislava bike path