Relaxing in the Red Sea

Feeling as if my heavy head had just hit the soft pillow, alarm bells rang for my earliest wake up call that I can remember.  The clock had just struck 2AM, and it was time to depart for Vienna for my four hour flight to the Red Sea city of Hurghada, Egypt.  One small observation, with the flight being operated by Niki Air (part of Air Berlin/One World), I thought it was odd the Niki’s mascot is a fly.  With most airlines choosing a bird or country specific emblem (a shamrock for Air Lingus or tropical dancer for Hawaiian Airlines), I have no clue why Niki would choose an annoying insect as their route to market.  But the airline is friendly, the food is good, and the flights were on time.

Egypt is home to 82 million people, and an interesting point of reference is that 98% of the population resides on 3% of the land.  Being that the country is predominately desert, the observation is probably not shocking, but the low land percentage is surprising.  From the air, you can definitely sense that the Nile River is the source of life for many, as seems that the only source of green vegetation was on the banks of the river.  Bordering Libya to the west, Sudan to the south, the Mediterranean Sea and Gaza to the north, and the Red Sea to the East, with Saudi Arabia just across, there was always a sense of nervous feelings in the air.  However, within the walls of the resort, you felt like this was paradise. 

Upon arriving in the airport (where I received a second look from passport control), and a short 30 minute bus ride through the deserts and along the mountains, finally coming to a stop in secluded area which housed 500+ rooms, 5 restaurants, 3 large pools (although they were too cold for me at 22/70 degrees), multiple bars, and lots of ice cream, I was definitely looking forward to a relaxing time.  With any time to a foreign country, you must always be careful what you eat and drink to order to not spend your entire trip trapped in your hotel room.  Apart from drinking bottled water (even for brushing) and no ice ever, my recommendation is to eat as unhealthy as you possibly can.  Leave the fresh fruits (bananas are ok because they must be pealed) and salads to the side, and select the fries, burgers, eggs, and noodles…basically anything that has been cooked.

With the temperature hovering around 27 (80s) all week, the sea was 24 degrees, and while it was too cold for the dolphins, it was just perfect for me.  Apart from sun and fun, one of the main tourist attractions of the Red Sea is the amazing coral life.  You definitely need a pair of water shoes as the coral is very hard and sharp.  After walking about 100 yards from the shore through the waist deep sea, you breath is taken away by the 40 foot drop covered with numerous and colorful marine life.  I struggled to keep pace with the small sting ray that blended in very well with the sea floor while the dark and elusive moray eel remained hidden within the coral, finally slithering through the rocks in search for some peace and quiet.

A week in the Red Sea was exactly what I needed to relax from the hustle and bustle of work, and to look forward to 2013.  

When in Rome

“My name is Maximus Decimus Meridius, commander of the Armies of the North, General of the Felix Legions, loyal servant to the true emperor, Marcus Aurelius. Father to a murdered son, husband to a murdered wife. And I will have my vengeance, in this life or the next" said Russell Crowe in while standing in the middle of the Roman Colosseum.  The Colosseum, build of concrete and stone, is considered one of the greatest works of Roman architecture and engineering.  Occupying the site just east of the Roman Forum, construction began in 72 AD, and took 8 years to complete.  Capable of seating 50,000 spectators, the Colosseum was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Classical mythology. It was later reused for such purposes as housing, workshops, quarters for a religious order, a fortress, a quarry, and a Christian shrine.  The majority of the Colosseum has withstood the test of time, even through fires and earthquakes, however parts of the outer south side, lying on a less stable terrain, collapsed. Much of the tumbled stone was reused to build palaces, churches, hospitals and other buildings elsewhere in Rome.

Roma (Italian) is the capital of Italy with 2.8 million residents is the fourth-most populous city in the Europe, and consistently in the top 15 most visited cities in the world.  Built on seven hills on banks of the Tiber River and numerous stories have been handed down by generations as to the legends and myths of the city. Perhaps the most famous of all Roman myths, is the story of Romulus and Remus, twins who were raised suckled by a she-wolf after being thrown into the Tiber River by a relative. Upon being raised by the wolf, the boys decided to build a city, but after an argument, Romulus killed his brother. The Capitoline Wolf sculpture depicts a tense, watchful animal, with alert ears and glaring eyes watching for danger. By contrast, the human twins are oblivious to their surroundings.

The Roman Forum was the rectangular plaza surrounded by the ruins of several important ancient government buildings at the center of the city of Rome. For centuries, it was the center of Roman public life: the site of triumphal processions and elections of Sulla, Julius Caesar and Augustus, criminal trials, and nucleus of commercial affairs. Located in the small valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills, the Forum today is a sprawling ruin of architectural fragments and intermittent archeological excavations attracting numerous sightseers.

Moving across Rome, The Pantheon was build as a temple to all the gods of Ancient Rome, and rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in about 126 AD after being destroyed by a fire.  The building is circular with a portico of large granite Corinthian columns under a pediment. A rectangular vestibule links the porch to the rotunda, which is under a coffered, concrete dome, with a central opening to the sky. Almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. The stresses in the dome were found to be substantially reduced by the use of successively less dense aggregate stones, such as small pots or pieces of pumice, in higher layers of the dome. If normal weight concrete had been used throughout, the stresses in the arch would have been some 80% greater.  It is one of the best-preserved of all Roman buildings. It has been in continuous use throughout its history, and since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been used as a Roman Catholic church dedicated to "St. Mary and the Martyrs" but informally known as "Santa Maria della Rotonda.". The square in front of the Pantheon is called Piazza della Rotonda.

Nearby The Pantheon, the Spanish Steps are a set of steps in Rome, Italy, climbing a steep slope between the Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti, dominated by the Trinità dei Monti church at the top. The Scalinata is the widest staircase in Europe.  The monumental stairway of 138 steps was built linking the Bourbon Spanish Embassy, and the Trinità dei Monti church, both located above, to the Holy See in Palazzo Monaldeschi located below. The stairway was designed by architects Francesco de Sanctis and Alessandro Specchi.

The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or "Fountain of the Four Rivers" is a fountain in Rome, Italy, located in the urban square of the Piazza Navona. The base of the fountain is a basin from the centre of which travertine rocks rise to support four river gods and above them, an ancient Egyptian obelisk surmounted with the Pamphili family emblem of a dove with an olive twig. Collectively, they represent four major rivers of the four continents through which papal authority had spread: the Nile representing Africa, the Danube representing Europe, the Ganges representing Asia, and the Plata representing the Americas.  Each of the four river gods have animals and plants that further carry forth the identification, and each carries a certain number of allegories and metaphors with it. The Ganges carries a long oar, representing the river's navigability. The Nile's head is draped with a loose piece of cloth, meaning that no one at that time knew exactly where the Nile's source was. The Danube touches the Papal coat of arms, since it is the large river closest to Rome. And the Río de la Plata is sitting on a pile of coins, a symbol of the riches America could offer to Europe (the word plata means "silver" in Spanish).

While this probably goes without saying, when in Rome, the food is phenomenal.  Recipes of the best lasagna, penne, ravioli, and pizza, handed down by generations, can be found throughout the city.  While it may be strange that a restaurant might be located down a dark and dirty alleyway, do not let that deter you from trying.  Oddly, some of the best food I tasted was in places not in the square in front of The Pantheon, but down a side street or dark alley which I would have never thought.

Finally, as a recommendation from my Italian colleague, if you ever have the chance to visit Rome, not far from the complex of Sant'Anselmo, on the Aventine Hill, is Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. You will arrive at the door of the headquarters of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, known affectionately by Romans as the "hole of Rome".   You will notice large queue (line) of visitors to this out of the way spot. No key is required: it is sufficient to put an open eye to the keyhole, and focus………….

 

 

Happy 500th Birthday

Ascending up the final steps of the stairway, I could sense the growing excitement of the crowd.  Throughout the day, ones mind becomes overwhelmed with numerous sculptures and frescos, with the anticipation of the final room keeping everyone moving forward.  Walking into the chapel, you are immediately drawn to the work of art spread across 1,100 square meters (12,000 square feet).  Due to the age (500 years old on Nov 2) and sensitivity of the paint to dust, heat, and light, the room is air conditioned, and the windows are covered.

Arguably the most famous chapel in the world, the Sistine Chapel lies within the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope in the Vatican City.  Michelangelo Buonarroti was commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 to repaint the ceiling of the Chapel.  While it was originally painted as golden stars on a blue sky, Michelangelo was commissioned to paint only 12 figures, the Apostles. He turned down the commission because he saw himself as a sculptor, not a painter. The Pope offered to allow Michelangelo to paint biblical scenes of his own choice as a compromise. After the work was finished, there were more than 300 figures displaying the creation, Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, and the Great Flood.  The ceiling work was completed between 1508 and November 2, 1512, with The Last Judgment being painted by Michelangelo between 1535–1541. For 500 years, the ceiling has withstood the test of time, through natural disasters and conflicts, and is widely believed to be Michelangelo's crowning achievement in painting. 

One of the primary functions of the Sistine Chapel is as a venue for the election of each successive pope in a conclave of the College of Cardinals. On the occasion of a conclave, a chimney is installed in the roof of the chapel, from which smoke arises as a signal. If white smoke appears, created by burning the ballots of the election, a new Pope has been elected. If a candidate receives less than a two-thirds majority, the cardinals send up black smoke—created by burning the ballots along with wet straw and chemical additives—it means that no successful election has yet occurred.

Visited by over 5 million people last year (15,000 per day), the Vatican Museums are among the greatest museums in the world, displaying works from the immense collection built up by the Roman Catholic Church throughout the centuries, including some of the most renowned classical sculptures and most important masterpieces of Renaissance art in the world.  The four Raphael's rooms in the Palace of the Vatican form a suite of reception rooms, the public part of the papal apartments. They are famous for their frescoes, painted by Raphael and his workshop. Together with Michelangelo's ceiling frescoes in the Sistine Chapel, they are the grand fresco sequences that mark the High Renaissance in Rome.

Saint Peter's Basilica is the church located within Vatican City which remains one of the largest churches in the world and is regard as one of the holiest Catholic sites.  In Roman Catholic tradition, the basilica is the burial site of its namesake Saint Peter, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and, also according to tradition, the first Bishop of Rome and therefore first in the line of the papal succession. Tradition and some historical evidence hold that Saint Peter's tomb is directly below the altar of the basilica.  The dome of St. Peter's rises to a total height of 136.57 meters (448.1 ft) from the floor of the basilica to the top of the external cross. It is not only the highest building in Rome, but the tallest dome in the world.

The Pietà (1498–1499) is another masterpiece of Renaissance sculpture by Michelangelo, housed in St. Peter's Basilica.  It is the only piece Michelangelo ever signed, which depicts the body of Jesus on the lap of his mother Mary after the Crucifixion.

Vatican City is an impressive place to visit (it is actually its own country).  The history, numerous artifacts and frescos in the museum, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and Square, leaves your mind overwhelmed with information, but definitely worth the wait in long lines (which were much shorter than during the peak summer travel).

Wine Time

  The rays from the sun beat down on upon the field, and while I kept cutting the numerous strands of grapes, I thought to myself this might be something I can enjoy in retirement (even though retirement is 30+ years away).  The process of making wine seemed intriguing, however, my lesson was just beginning at the end of the summer harvest, and did not take into consideration all the preparation and active management that is done throughout the season to ensure a good grape.  Even with full dedication and long hours during the spring and summer, you are not guaranteed a successful season.  Factors outside your control including mother nature, the type of dirt or irrigation of your land, and even your vine neighbor’s maintenance and gardening skills will affect the dynamics of your grape.  During our time in the field, we filled twenty-five 30 liter crates full of grape strands, and learned some important facts about the process.

  First, the level of alcohol in the finished wine is determined by the level of sugar in the grapes from which it is made, and the primary driver in the sugar level is the amount of sunlight.  More sugar means higher alcohol content. Grapes on the side of the vine which receive the bulk of the day’s sunlight, as well as grapes grown further south which see more sun, will contain more stored sugar than those grown in the north or shady side of the branch.  Therefore, northern wines contain a lower level of alcohol, unless additional sugar is added through a process called chaptalization.  However, a natural wine is made only with its natural sugars.  The alcohol content in this batch of grapes will be between 12 and 13 percent.

  With our in-field experience complete, and after a traditional Slovak lunch of duck, pancakes, and of course wine from last years harvest, it was time to continue the wine making process.  The harvested grapes are placed in a clean container, strands and branches separated by a homemade machine, and the grape is slightly crushed. The juice and grapes skins are transferred to a bin where, depending on the type of wine, will settle, before being transferred to another crusher.  This time, we are making white wine, thus we can transfer the partially crushed grapes and juice to the second crusher immediately.  However, had we been making red wine, the juice would have been required to settle in the bin with the grape skins for a few days.  Although it never occurred to me, the reason is quite simple.  Pulp is the liquid center that is made up of mostly water as well as sugars and acids. Regardless of the type of grape (red or green), the color of the pulp of is actually grey or colorless.  The skin of a red grape is arguably the most important ingredient of red wine which is responsible for the red wine’s distinct color spectrum. Because the pulp of the grape is colorless, the tannins and color compounds of the skin are necessary to give red wine its beautiful color. The pigment is transferred into the wine when the skins are left with the juice during the initial fermentation through a process called maceration.  The individual wine’s particular red hue will depend on the grape type used in the process and the length of time the skin’s pigmentation is in contact with juice. 

  Yeasts, which are necessary to produce alcohol, exist naturally in the vineyard and live on the grape skins. As soon as the skin of the grape is broken, fermentation begins. Once the grapes have been crushed, these yeasts interact with the sugar in the grape juice to produce alcohol (“fermentation”).  Yeast strains vary widely from place to place and contribute significantly to the odor of the finished wine. The yeasts indigenous to a particular area are an important part of what gives its wines their character.  Conventionally grown grapes have little or no wild yeast living on their skin.  Fermentation will continue until all the sugar has been turned into alcohol or the level of alcohol in the juice reaches around fifteen percent, whichever is sooner.  At fifteen percent alcohol, the yeasts will die naturally and any left over sugars will remain in the wine.

  After crushing the grapes a second time by hand using a machine which my friends great grandfather actually used for making wine that looked similar to a wooden barrel (we are making white wine, not red), and then transferring the liquids to oak (not pine) and stainless steel barrels, the fermentation process can continue.  Note that the storage container is very important, and will affect the wine’s maturation, to the extent that grapes from the same vineyard will produce vastly different wines when stored in different types of containers.  The grape juice will be stored for a few months, and through fermentation, will become a tasty white wine for all to enjoy.

Bottle Corker

Holder Tractor built in 1959 (and running well)

Sports/Activity Day

  Cautiously calculating each step, the gusting winds were going to make this obstacle course a challenge.  Narrow balance beams, tires and planks suspended by ropes, which any and every bit of movement sent the platform in a different direction.  While this might sound like any ordinary obstacle course, it was suspended 10 meters (30 ft) above the ground (scary that I am finally starting to understand meters, liters, and Celsius).  And with each turn, I would have to adjust the safety harnesses to the new direction.  The course was fun, but the 8 suspended tires, and moving platform which required you to swing onto by a rope Indiana Jones style, were made more challenging by swirling winds.  In our first timed run with the team, we experienced some delays, as we needed to become familiar with the course but on the second try, I fared much better.

  The next challenge took us over to the paint ball course where our team of 10 would face one of the other center teams in a game of capture the flag.  Immediately as the whistle sounded, I sprinted to the small hill which housed the flag.  By now, paint balls were crisscrossing all throughout the course, and I was really not ready to start and be pelted from every direction.  I crouched against the hill while constantly monitoring both sides as the enemy approached.  I felt if we were going to win the first game, it would be now or never to attempt to take the flag.  Rising to my feet, and climbing to the top of the small hill, the flag was no where to be found.  Through my hesitation, the other team had quietly run off with the flag, even as I lay nearby.  However, the flag did not make it far, as it was dropped near a makeshift shelter.  As I crept closer to the prize, I felt three pinches and had green paint splattered across my mask.  While we lost the first game, we did win the second, and the third game became an all out “use all your paint balls regardless of how many times you get hit” brawl.  The rest of the day’s activities consisted of football (soccer…which I am a terrible goalie), sand volleyball, 4x4 wheel driving, and finally, a giant 20 meter swing/drop.  And of course, there was good food and beer to enjoy the day with the team and other center members.  In all, we had about 250 people, and everyone had a great time, especially since Slovakia won their hockey game against Canada to advance to the semi-finals.

  Finally, it seems I have found the new favorite food of the office which everyone has enjoyed.  As a standard staple for most American diets, similar to peanut butter with jelly, or burgers with fries, chips and a dip are a required combination.  And while I have not found any Dean’s French Onion dip, avocados are plentiful, and my guacamole recipe has been a huge success.  While I am not sure what the traditional use of the avocado is in Slovakia, taking a couple avocados, a tomato, onion, red pepper, lime juice, and adding a prepackaged mix brought from the US, the dip has become a favorite of many.  To take the tasty snack to another level in flavor country, I started making cheese quesadillas which become an instant hit.  Now I need to convince family and friends who visit me to carry onto the plane a suitcase full of guacamole mix.