The anticipation was growing as we approached the border,
and just like that, it was over.
Thirty-five years ago when my parents visited Ireland, armed military guarded the
borders with strict enforcement of entry.
Today, there is no discernible border between the Republic
of Ireland and Northern Ireland,
thus no passport is needed when driving from one country into the other. There are no customs stations, buildings, or
signs indicating that you have crossed the border, however, there are a few
noticeable differences. First, the
driving shoulder in Ireland
is indicated by a dashed yellow line, while in Northern Ireland, the line is a continuous
white line. Second, Northern Ireland speed limits and distances will
be shown in miles, while in the Republic
of Ireland, kilometers are
displayed. Also, signs in Ireland are in both English and Gaelic, but just
English in Northern Ireland. Finally, Northern
Ireland uses pounds sterling, while the currency in the Republic of Ireland is the Euro. While there has been peace in the region for
15 years with the signing of the Good Friday Agreement, the issues remain
sensitive, and erecting welcome signs might cause additional and unwanted
tension.
Traveling through the picturesque green hills of the country
in route to the city of Belfast,
you can clearly see areas which are pro-Irish Republic or pro-British supporters
through flags to murals, even extending down to humble curbstones - painted
blue-white-red in loyalist areas, green-white-orange by their republican
neighbors. Upon arrival in Belfast, you still see some signs of Northern Ireland's
troubled past nonetheless. Massive
armored Landrovers are still in use by the police, and police stations are on a
tight security regime with barricades, fences and windowless walls. The civilian side of life sometimes means
segregation, especially in urban areas - staunchly republican and fiercely
loyalist quarters can exist side by side and may be divided by so-called
"Peace Lines". The giant wall
which separates the neighborhoods of pro-Irish Republic supporters from the
pro-British supports still exists, and at any time, the two iron gates
providing access between the two can be closed.
The solid wall was built to discourage shooting into the different
neighbor was extended higher to further prevent things from being thrown over
the top. In the center of Belfast is the
Europa Hotel, unfortunately know as the most bombed hotel in Europe and world
after having suffered 28 bomb attacks during the troubled times.
Belfast, with a population of
281,000 people is the fourteenth largest city in the United
Kingdom and second largest on the island of Ireland. Belfast
was originally the center for the Irish linen industry and shipbuilding. Belfast played
a key role in the Industrial Revolution, with the city's main shipbuilders,
Harland and Wolff, building the well-known Titanic, and propelling Belfast on to the global
stage. The industry has been in decline,
but Belfast is still economic engine of Northern Ireland. Like most European cities, there is a large
square for shopping, as well as numerous churches.
While our time was limited, and I did not have time to experience
the Great Causeway, but the trip to Belfast
was well worth the experience, and hopefully peace will continue in the region
as it has for the last 15 years.
