Strolling through Sofia

Entering the packed cafeteria a short distance from the office, I knew finding enough seats for our large group was going to be tough.  Sitting at a table near the entrance, we ask a couple patrons next to ours who were dining at the table for over 10 minutes if we could take one of their empty chairs.  Baffled by the shake of their heads no, we start wondering why they might be holding the chair.  As we turn to head back to our table, they stop us, and indicate that we forgot to take the chair we asked for.  It appears that we have just experienced our first encounter with the Bulgarian head nod.  While the head motions are exactly the same as others cultures, for some reason, they have done the same thing but opposite. The head nod up and down means “no”, and the head nod from side to side means “yes”, and was definitely one of my most interesting experiences in travel.

Located at the foot of Mount Vitosha in the western part of Bulgaria, Sofia is the 15th largest city in the EU with a population of about 1.3 million people.  Lying on the western side of the country at the center of the Balkan Peninsula and about 3 hours north of the sea coasts of Greece, the history of Sofia dates back over 2,400 years; however the population remained relatively small until 1879, when it expanded greatly after being declared that capital of Bulgaria.  One of Sofia's symbols and primary tourist attractions is St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.  Built in Neo-Byzantine style, it serves as the cathedral church of the Patriarch of Bulgaria and is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world with a capacity of 10,000 people.  The cathedral is adjacent to St. Sofia Church, and not far from the church, you will find an open market were you can purchase numerous handmade textiles and antiques.  I was definitely surprised at the number of Nazi Germany related items and it was not until late 1943, and early 1944, when Sofia was bombed by Allied as a consequence of the invasion of the Soviet Red Army, the government was overthrown.

After World War II, the country was ruled under socialism, and experienced an industrialization period which rapidly expanded the city to the point where the influx of workers became so intense that a restriction policy was imposed, and residing in the capital was only possible after obtaining Sofianite citizenship.  This strengthened Sofia’s standing as the economic heart of Bulgaria which still stands today with Vitosha Boulevard the main shopping street adorned with numerous outdoor cafes and restaurants, including a number of ice cream stands.  The city is also very green, with numerous parks sprawling across the city.  There are bungalows as well as several ski slopes on Vitosha, allowing many to take full advantage of the mountains without having to leave the city.

Ironic - Coca Cola and the Museum of Socialist Art

With the Revolutions of 1989, democratic reforms were initiated, and some of the Bulgarian socialist republic can be found Museum of Socialist Art in Sofia and the Politics of Avoidance.  The country continues to develop, and I really enjoyed meeting the team, especially trying the local cuisine, which I would recommend Pod Lipite (Under the Linden Tree in English).  Finally, an added bonus to the trip was it aligned to the start of Bon Jovi’s European tour in the city, which was a lot of fun.

Coasting to Krakow

Speed Limit Signs in Poland - I guess just pick a number

Cautiously approaching the obstacle that lay between me, and the final destination, a sense of fear came upon as I reminded myself of the potential trouble that might lie ahead…..“Look kids, Big Ben! Parliament!” the famous line said multiple times by Chevy Chase in European Vacation, I was about to tackle my first roundabout.  I conquered each roundabout with ease on route to visit the city where my great grandparents were born in Krakow, Poland.  Upon crossing the border into Poland, the recently constructed highway was smooth, almost too smooth.  Finally realizing that I had not seen a single car on either side of the highway, I began to wonder what might happen next.  Was I getting the royal treatment with a personal road for my journey into the country, or would I be awarded the medal for christening a new highway?  It turned out that the bridge ahead was under construction, and a 20 minute detour would take me through a small pot-hole filed town, with no Zloty (Polish currency) or map adding an additional challenge in my journey to Krakow (although I still have not attempted to conquer driving manual transmission).  Apart from the multiple speed limits, two other experiences of driving in Europe, neither of which involves driving on the other side of the road which is only in the UK and Ireland.  First, the street signs in all of the cities are located on the 2^nd floor of corner buildings, unlike the US that has them posted on the corners, which makes finding avenues more difficult.  Second, regarding the traffic signals, the colors go from green to yellow to red, then yellow before turning back to green.  Basically drivers just accelerate at the yellow either way.

Located on the banks of the Vistula River, Krakow is the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland dating back to the 7th century.  From 1038 to 1569, Krakow served as the capital of Poland, and is the leading centers of Polish academic, cultural, and artistic life and one of Poland's most important economic hubs.  The city has a population of approximately 760,000, with about 8 million people living within a 100 km radius of its main square.  After the invasion of Poland at the start of World War II, Krakow became the capital of Germany's General Government.  Poles and Jews were classified as subhumans by the occupiers and were targeted for eventual extermination.   In 1978, Karol Wojtyła, archbishop of Krakow, was elevated to the papacy as Pope John Paul II becoming the first Slavic pope ever, and the first non-Italian pope in 455 years.

Life in Krakow revolves around the historic center, which includes Old Town and Wawel Castle.  The entire medieval old town was among the first sites chosen for the UNESCO's original World Heritage List.  Surrounded by old brick buildings and palaces, almost all of them several centuries old, the main square dates back to the 13th century, and is the largest medieval town square in Europe at roughly 40,000 m² (430,000 ft²).  Today, numerous outdoor restaurants and bars surround the outside border of the square, with St. Mary's Basilica and Town Hall Tower standing high above the crowds the fill the area below.

Standing just off the river bank is Wawel, consisting of many buildings and fortifications; the largest and best known of these are Royal Castle and Wawel Cathedral which is the Basilica of St Stanisław and St Wacław). Some of the Wawel's oldest stone buildings, such as the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary can be dated to 970AD.  There are also wooden parts of the complex which date to about the 9th century.  The castle itself has been described as "one of the most fascinating of all European castles."

Located just south of Krakow is the town of Wieliczka, home to a famous salt mine built in the 13th century, which produced table salt continuously until 2007.  The Wieliczka salt mine reaches a depth of 327 metres (1,073 ft) and is over 287 kilometres (178 mi) long.  The mine's attractions include dozens of statues, three chapels and an entire cathedral that has been carved out of the rock salt by the miners. The oldest sculptures are augmented by the new carvings by contemporary artists.  During World War II, the shafts were used by the occupying Germans as an ad-hoc facility for various war-related industries.

Not to end on a sad note, but any trip to Krakow should include a stop to pay respect to the atrocity which occurred at the Auschwitz concentration camps. While it was not a very pleasant tour, it was extremely important to understand the magnitude of the events which happened there not too long ago.

 

Back in Budapest

Passing through subway ticket stamping machine, I felt a greater police presence watching over the pedestrians.  With each station stop came more pedestrians, and more watchful eyes, and I was not sure what to expect next.  Finally, arriving at the final stop just under the park which the bus home would depart from, police were decked out in full riot gear to greet the mass of people departing off the subway.  This was not a protest, but a European football (soccer) match, and it happened the bus back to Bratislava was departing from the same location and time as the game.  Actually, getting to the bus was easy, and the bus was great, with personal TVs and tons of movies for each leather seat, but thank goodness I was wearing neutral colors, or it could have made things a little tougher.

Situated about 2.5 hours down the Danube River, Budapest is the capital of Hungary, and home to the 7^th largest population in the EU with 1.7M people.  Cited as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, its extensive World Heritage Site includes the banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter, Heroes' Square and numerous spas and baths.  Budapest was formed back in 1873, when the cities of Pest (mostly flat land), Buda (hilly), and Obuda (oldest city) united to form one, and became the capital of Hungary.  On the Pest side, you will find the neo-Gothic Parliament, the biggest building in Hungary with its 268 meter length, which contains the Hungarian Crown Jewels.  A few blocks from the parliament is Saint Stephen's Basilica, where the Holy Right Hand of the founder of Hungary, King Saint Stephen is on display. Another historical museum is the House of Terror, which at one point was the venue of the Nazi headquarters for the area.  The museum now contains exhibits related to the fascist and communist dictatorial regimes in 20th-century Hungary and is also a memorial to the victims of these regimes, including those detained, interrogated, tortured or killed in the building.

Connecting Buda to Pest is the Chain Bridge.  Built in 1849, it was the first permanent bridge across the Danube in Budapest.  At the time of its construction, it was regarded as one of the modern world's engineering wonders.  It has asserted an enormous significance in the country's economic, social and cultural life, much as the Brooklyn Bridge has in New York and United States of America.  A steep climb up the hill, and you will find Buda Castle, built on the southern tip of Castle Hill, bounded on the north by what is known as the Castle District, famous for its Medieval houses, churches, and public buildings.  Further down the hill, you will find a small church built into the side of the rocks, as well as the world-famous Gellért Baths.  Ever since its opening in 1918, Gellért Baths remains one of the most beautiful and most photographed baths in Budapest. References to healing waters in this location can be found from as early as the 15th century. The hot springs that feed the thermal baths rise from deep within Gellért Hill, and the Turks used them during the 16th and 17th centuries during their stay in Hungary.  While it sounds crazy, one of the best ways to relax the bones and muscles is getting out of the warm baths, and quickly jumping into the cold tub for a minute (if you stand the sudden change), which I tried multiple times and felt great.

Budapest is a beautiful and fun city, and visiting it a second time was perfect.  At least I knew not to use the hotel phones which last time surprised me with a $600 phone bill for three calls.  Just be sure to ask to leave the cucumbers out of the guacamole; it really does not go well with the rest of the dip.

Finally, a quick shout out to the 2013 Stanley Cup Champion Chicago Blackhawks, with Marian Hossa and Michal Handzus representing Slovakia.  I am looking forward to seeing the cup when they continue the tour with a couple stops in the Slovak Republic.  While the time zone differences were tough, I was up early to watch the OTs and most important final period of game 6.

Scenic Northern Ireland

The anticipation was growing as we approached the border, and just like that, it was over.  Thirty-five years ago when my parents visited Ireland, armed military guarded the borders with strict enforcement of entry.  Today, there is no discernible border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, thus no passport is needed when driving from one country into the other.  There are no customs stations, buildings, or signs indicating that you have crossed the border, however, there are a few noticeable differences.  First, the driving shoulder in Ireland is indicated by a dashed yellow line, while in Northern Ireland, the line is a continuous white line.  Second, Northern Ireland speed limits and distances will be shown in miles, while in the Republic of Ireland, kilometers are displayed.  Also, signs in Ireland are in both English and Gaelic, but just English in Northern Ireland.  Finally, Northern Ireland uses pounds sterling, while the currency in the Republic of Ireland is the Euro.  While there has been peace in the region for 15 years with the signing of the Good Friday Agreement, the issues remain sensitive, and erecting welcome signs might cause additional and unwanted tension.

Traveling through the picturesque green hills of the country in route to the city of Belfast, you can clearly see areas which are pro-Irish Republic or pro-British supporters through flags to murals, even extending down to humble curbstones - painted blue-white-red in loyalist areas, green-white-orange by their republican neighbors.  Upon arrival in Belfast, you still see some signs of Northern Ireland's troubled past nonetheless.  Massive armored Landrovers are still in use by the police, and police stations are on a tight security regime with barricades, fences and windowless walls.  The civilian side of life sometimes means segregation, especially in urban areas - staunchly republican and fiercely loyalist quarters can exist side by side and may be divided by so-called "Peace Lines".  The giant wall which separates the neighborhoods of pro-Irish Republic supporters from the pro-British supports still exists, and at any time, the two iron gates providing access between the two can be closed.  The solid wall was built to discourage shooting into the different neighbor was extended higher to further prevent things from being thrown over the top.  In the center of Belfast is the Europa Hotel, unfortunately know as the most bombed hotel in Europe and world after having suffered 28 bomb attacks during the troubled times. 

Belfast, with a population of 281,000 people is the fourteenth largest city in the United Kingdom and second largest on the island of Ireland.  Belfast was originally the center for the Irish linen industry and shipbuilding.  Belfast played a key role in the Industrial Revolution, with the city's main shipbuilders, Harland and Wolff, building the well-known Titanic, and propelling Belfast on to the global stage.  The industry has been in decline, but Belfast is still economic engine of Northern Ireland.  Like most European cities, there is a large square for shopping, as well as numerous churches.

While our time was limited, and I did not have time to experience the Great Causeway, but the trip to Belfast was well worth the experience, and hopefully peace will continue in the region as it has for the last 15 years.

Luck of the Irish

As I wish everyone a Happy St. Patrick’s Day, I cannot think of a better place to write about today than the emerald island of Ireland.  While I was not visiting during the past weekend, I recently met up with a couple friends to enjoy what the city of Dublin has to offer.  With a vibrant nightlife and one of Europe's most youthful cities, Dublin is the capital of Ireland, and the economic center of the country.  Just south of the River Liffey lies Dublin’s cultural quarter, known as Temple Bar.  The Temple Bar area, with its medieval street pattern and cobbled stone streets, has a lively nightlife with multiple bars and restaurants.  

Ireland has a unique history with during a period of political and economic decline, the government was transferred to the United Kingdom at the start of the 19^th century.  After subsequent attempts to reclaim their independence, it was not until Irish Civil Ware that the Anglo-Irish Treaty established a “free state” (not a republic) in December 1922. The treaty provided for a self-governing Irish state in 26 of Ireland's 32 counties, with the remaining six northeastern counties opting to remain part of the United Kingdom as Northern Ireland (to be written in a separate entry).  Even after the signing of the treaty, the Irish society was left divided and embittered.

Kilmainham Gaol played an important part in Irish history, as many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned and some executed in the prison by the British and in 1923 by the Irish Free State.  Built in 1796, public hangings originally occurred at the front of the Gaol for all to witness.  Since the prison was seen principally as a site of oppression and suffering in the struggle for national independence, Kilmainham Gaol was decommissioned by the Irish Free State government in 1924.

Finally, no trip to Dublin is complete without visiting the most popular tourist attraction is St. James's Gate Brewery. Originally leased in 1759 to Arthur Guinness for 9,000 years, St. James's Gate was the largest brewery in the world up to 1914 and has been the home of Guinness.  Now a Guinness museum, incorporating elements from the old brewing factory to explain the history of its production, you are still able to see the old brewing equipment, as well as stout ingredients, brewing techniques, creative advertising methods and storage devices.  The final floor is the Bar, which has a panorama view over the city of Dublin, and where visitors can claim a free pint.

Outside of Dublin and rising almost 700 feet above the Atlantic Ocean on southwestern edge of County Clare, Ireland, you will find the Cliffs of Moher.  An estimated 1 million people per year visit the cliffs to enjoy wonderful views of 300 million year old shale and sandstone formations.  An estimated 30,000 birds live on the cliffs, representing more than 20 species.  The one place I did not get a chance to see was the famous Blarney Stone, which I will have to try another time.

Just in case you need a reminder of the drop

Ironic - The Guinness Medical Department

Temple Bar

Gaol prison where some of the executions occurred

“Wal-mart” of the Sky

Traveling in a pressurized tube more than 33,000 feet above the ground, the familiar warning announcement of no smoking while on board the plane came loud and clear through the speakers.  Still, I debated seeking the attention of the flight attendant passing down the aisle selling duty free packs of cigarettes on board the plane.  With such a great deal walking through, it was tempting to not let this opportunity pass me bye.  However, I did pass only to wait for the next flight attendant who was selling scratch off tickets.  In an industry of unprofitability and cut-throat competition, Ryan Air has mastered the add-on fee and raised new proposals to save money and deliver low cost fares to customers.  Apart from introducing a charge for oxygen when the pressure masks fall or tactics like circulating the smell of popcorn through the air to stir an appetite, Ryan Air has been the most talked about airline for introducing cost-saving ventures, and it was now time for me to experience first hand why 80 million passengers per year choose to travel with Ryan Air.

Searching for a flight to visit Dublin for a weekend, I came across an extremely low fare from Ryan Air.  After selecting the flights, I was then asked if I would like to purchase additional travel insurance and check luggage, which I declined.  Then an offer for a text message, followed by Ryan Air talk, an airport transfer, and finally, an offer to purchase actual luggage.  Proceeding to the next page had another offer, “Play to Win”, which for 3 Euro, I could be entered to win back the cost of my flight.  After finally given the chance to enter my credit card information, for an additional fee, and because the site recognized I had a US address, an offer for a “guaranteed” exchange rate of 10% higher than the actual rate which Ryan Air highly recommended, I was finally able to purchase my ticket.  Additional offers for hotels, meals, and tours followed once my ticket was confirmed.  And, as part of Ryan Air’s policy, you must check-in online and print your boarding pass prior to arriving at the airport.  Should you forget to check in, or lose your boarding pass, you will be charged an additional 60 Euro.  To ensure you did not make an error earlier when booking, as you check in for your flight, you go through the same tempting offers as you did when you paid for your flight.

Arriving to the airport about 1 hour before my flight, with my boarding pass in hand, I lined up to board the plane.  Under a very watchful gate attendant, each bag was checked to ensure it was proper size, or else an additional checked baggage fee would apply.  Boarding the plane was by far the quickest and most efficient process I have even been apart of.  Boarding a jet parked away from the gate, using both the front and rear doors, and no assigned sears, it took just under 15 minutes to board and we were up in the air in no time.  While you are constantly bombarded with offers to purchase items, or advertisements on the overhead bins and seat backs, the airline met my main objective, which is take-offs equals landings (proper landings as water landings do not count).  Ryan Air is an extremely popular travel option within Europe, and very convenient from the Bratislava airport.  Fliers willing to tolerate a little hardship and potentially high fees if the rules are not followed will find very reliable travel options.  As one of the only profitable airlines around, and with packed planes, it is hard to argue against their business model.

Finally, I cannot complete this entry without mentioning other ideas proposed by Ryan Air. 

1. To flight rising fuel costs, Ryan Air introduced proposals to lighten its load. Magazines featured thinner paper, safeties manuals were printed on the back of each seat, and even carried less ice on board.  But those marginal changes are benign compared to Ryan Air's weight-reducing proposal: Encouraging flight attendants to shed excess pounds.

2. After initially proposing coin-operated bathrooms, Ryan Air then considered replacing two of the three restrooms installed on each jet with six additional seats.  As quoted by the CEO, "We very rarely use all three toilets on board our aircraft anyway".

3. With a constant focus on passenger safety, Ryan Air suggested that the flight attendants be trained to fly.  While this sounds like a fantastic proposal, it was suggested to mitigate the risk of flying the plane with only one pilot meaning that the standard allotment of two pilots per plane is one too many.  In this case, if the computer was not able to set in to fly the plane, the flight attendants could step up in cases of emergency.

4. Naturally luggage adds a lot of pounds to any aircraft, and to recover some costs, many airlines have begun charging fees to limit weight and promote carry-on only bags. Ryan Air took it one step further by suggesting that passengers haul their check-in luggage to the plane's belly, to save the airline the costs of paying baggage handlers and check-in personnel.

5. Finally, spending a couple of hours crammed in an airplane seat, with the seat in front of you reclining into your face, and passengers using your seat as an assistant to help stand and balance, is no one's idea of fun.  Why not eliminate standard seats in favor of standing-only "berths"?  Instead of seat belts, Ryanair proposed passengers would use "handrails and straps" to secure themselves, thus removing last 10 rows of seats and replace with 15 rows of standing berths.