Scenic Northern Ireland

The anticipation was growing as we approached the border, and just like that, it was over.  Thirty-five years ago when my parents visited Ireland, armed military guarded the borders with strict enforcement of entry.  Today, there is no discernible border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, thus no passport is needed when driving from one country into the other.  There are no customs stations, buildings, or signs indicating that you have crossed the border, however, there are a few noticeable differences.  First, the driving shoulder in Ireland is indicated by a dashed yellow line, while in Northern Ireland, the line is a continuous white line.  Second, Northern Ireland speed limits and distances will be shown in miles, while in the Republic of Ireland, kilometers are displayed.  Also, signs in Ireland are in both English and Gaelic, but just English in Northern Ireland.  Finally, Northern Ireland uses pounds sterling, while the currency in the Republic of Ireland is the Euro.  While there has been peace in the region for 15 years with the signing of the Good Friday Agreement, the issues remain sensitive, and erecting welcome signs might cause additional and unwanted tension.

Traveling through the picturesque green hills of the country in route to the city of Belfast, you can clearly see areas which are pro-Irish Republic or pro-British supporters through flags to murals, even extending down to humble curbstones - painted blue-white-red in loyalist areas, green-white-orange by their republican neighbors.  Upon arrival in Belfast, you still see some signs of Northern Ireland's troubled past nonetheless.  Massive armored Landrovers are still in use by the police, and police stations are on a tight security regime with barricades, fences and windowless walls.  The civilian side of life sometimes means segregation, especially in urban areas - staunchly republican and fiercely loyalist quarters can exist side by side and may be divided by so-called "Peace Lines".  The giant wall which separates the neighborhoods of pro-Irish Republic supporters from the pro-British supports still exists, and at any time, the two iron gates providing access between the two can be closed.  The solid wall was built to discourage shooting into the different neighbor was extended higher to further prevent things from being thrown over the top.  In the center of Belfast is the Europa Hotel, unfortunately know as the most bombed hotel in Europe and world after having suffered 28 bomb attacks during the troubled times. 

Belfast, with a population of 281,000 people is the fourteenth largest city in the United Kingdom and second largest on the island of Ireland.  Belfast was originally the center for the Irish linen industry and shipbuilding.  Belfast played a key role in the Industrial Revolution, with the city's main shipbuilders, Harland and Wolff, building the well-known Titanic, and propelling Belfast on to the global stage.  The industry has been in decline, but Belfast is still economic engine of Northern Ireland.  Like most European cities, there is a large square for shopping, as well as numerous churches.

While our time was limited, and I did not have time to experience the Great Causeway, but the trip to Belfast was well worth the experience, and hopefully peace will continue in the region as it has for the last 15 years.