Slovakian Traditions

  Constantly gazing at the time remaining on the microwave, I always began to wonder if I had gone too far.  By now, the yellow marshmallow shape bunny in the microwave was becoming a bloated hippopotamus, and there was still 30 seconds to go.  Should I end the suspense or push my luck a little longer?  Unfortunately, my ritual of nuking Peeps would not happen this year because they are no where to be found (not even at my secret market which has all the American goods), however, Slovakia has there own interesting Easter traditions.

  Easter is a very important celebration in Slovakia, as well as many other parts of the world, called Velikonoce - from Veliké noci or Great Nights.  Just as I would while back home in the US, it began with attending church services, of course after I had eaten numerous sweets left by the Easter bunny.  And just like home, later in the afternoon, everyone would gather for large feast with family.  However, unlike home where we traditionally painted eggs the Saturday before and searched for them in the morning, the girls in Slovakia would decorate eggs (most common color is red) after dinner in preparation for the following Monday, while the boys head out to enjoy the rest of the evening.

  The following day, Easter Monday, a more controversial and odd tradition would ensue in which the boys throw water over girls and lightly whip them with braided branches. Throughout the day men (usually in groups) would visit their female relatives and friends singing Easter carols, and demand “treats” (eggs, chocolate, liquor, or a peck on the cheek).  The water, which could range teaspoon of warm tap water dribbled over you to a bucket of frigid well water thrown at you, was used as a symbol of life and a gesture meant to bestow year long health and beauty.  Then for good luck, they spank each girl with these special whips which were made from willow rods, with a length of 50 centimeters and ribbons at the end.  In some regions, the girls get their revenge on Tuesday when it’s their turn with the whips.  Fortunately, we were working Monday, and this did not occur.  The tradition, if it still exists, occurs in the smaller towns and villages, but it seems like Bratislava has moved past this tradition for the better.

  One other tradition which I really enjoy is bringing baked goods to the office on both your birthday, and names day.  In Slovakia, each day of the year corresponds to a personal name (the original list was the Roman Catholic calendar of saints). People celebrate their name days on the date corresponding to their own given names. Slovak culture has accorded similar importance to a person's name day to his or her birthday.  With over 400 people spread across two floors in our organization alone (1500 total), there are good odds that someone is celebrating a birthday or names day and has brought in some treats.  With a names day calendar in hand, I usually get good exercise each day walking between the floors in search of snacks.  For my birthday (Feb 17), I brought in oatmeal chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, and brownies, all which were a big hit with the teams.  It was a challenge to make because there are three different types of flour and brown sugar available!  My names day, Villiam (with a V in Slovakia), will be May 28, which I think I will make guacamole with chips (and cookies of course).

Names Day Calendar  - With Juraj and Marek celebrating names day this week, there should be a good amount of snacks available.

“Grey” Market

  Entering through the door of the store, zero words were exchanged with the cashier, only a glance towards the back aisle of the building.  As I began to make my way further through the store, I noticed the inconsistency of the floor tiles, shelves, freezers, even checkout counter and wonder what brought me here.  Passing through a selection of various fish from the sea, noodles, and different drinks which I never seen, I continued to press deeper into the market.  As if a light was shinning down from heaven through the roof, the familiar shape of Aunt Jemima appeared before me, and she brought her friends, Ben and Jerry!  Moving through the aisle and subsequent freezer, my small cart was quickly beginning to fill up.  Oreo’s, A1, peanut butter, pancake mix, Betty Crooker Cake and Brownie mix, pop tarts, hard shell El Paso Tacos, Hershey’s Chocolate syrup, Nestle Chocolate Chips; I even found samosa’s which if you read my blog from Kenya, became apart of my daily diet.  Approaching the check-out counter I found even more items which I initially overlooked, including stacks of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Laffy Taffy’s, and Peanut Butter M&Ms.  Being the gentleman that I am, I politely take two small packages of Peanut Butter M&Ms.  I quickly realize that two is not enough, and proceed to grab all remaining Peanut Butter M&Ms.  The entire experience felt like the Seinfeld episode which Kramer and Newman attempt to by shower heads off the black market.  Upon leaving the store, cashier handed me a card uttering the words anything I want from the US, email that contact and they will get. 

  As I begin the 6^th month of my time here in Bratislava, I am amazed at how fast time has gone by.  I am really enjoying my opportunity, the new friends which I have met, the challenges and adventures which lie ahead, and continuing to share this experience with you through my blog.  A few times a week, I view statistics of my blog, and I thought I would share those with you.  I just reached the 1,000^th viewer milestone (which does not include me or else it would be 2,000) yesterday, and while 66% of the viewer reside in the US (cannot view the city), the next nine locations of viewers hail from Slovakia, The UK, Malaysia, Russia, Austria, Germany, Ireland, Greece, and Switzerland.  The 6 major continents have all been represented by a viewer at one point in time, and I will definitely let you know if I ever am able to attract a view from Antarctica.  I have even had one-time views from countries ranging from Vietnam to Latvia, Tunisia to the island of Cyprus, even as far as the Cook Islands, which I googled to find it was just north east of New Zealand.  Finally, after just one month, Offshore Banking has 4 times as many views of any other blog.  While searching for Euro currency or tax shelters ideas, I am curious of the initial reactions people have who are brought to BratislavaBilly, the story of an American Expat adjusting to life in Europe and living in Slovakia.

Hiking in the High Tatras

 My knees were shaking, and as I slowly started to move forward I wondered how I should stop.  No, I was not at the top of a large mountain looking down at a treacherous slope, but rather at the foot of a small hill that was slightly tilted towards my right, which was the direction that I started to move. While I was still getting use to the heavy boots and ski’s, I finally realized that the sharp pains just above my ankles were the metal ski pant hooks trying to grip my socks.  After slowly lowering myself to the ground to stop, I then had to wait for someone to unlock my boots from the ski.

 Located in the north central part of Slovakia on the borders between Slovakia and Poland, the High Tatras Mountains with 17 peaks, rise 2650 meters (8,700 feet) above the European continent.  The area is well known for winter sports, with ski resorts in Štrbské pleso, and town of Poprad a short distance away. While the temperature was warm 18 (65) degrees in Bratislava, the snow was just perfect for skiing and hiking the beautiful, mountainous terrain located 4 hours by train from the capital.  Arriving mid-day on Friday, the clouds blocked all of the mountain peaks, however, that did not affect exploring the landscape.  Setting out into the designated paths, one could only notice the waist high railings were now at feet level because of the amount of snow that had fallen.  Proceeding further down the narrow and, at times, slippery path, signs warned of the different dangers that lurk.  While I did not need a sign to tell me that 2 meters to my right would be a long fall broken by numerous large trees, surprises could arise from avalanches and falling rocks, to snow covered areas which hide a undercover river.  Each turn of the path revealed new scenery and a beautiful array of snow covered trees, slopes, and a slowly melting waterfall trying to free itself from winter’s wrath.  The night ended with a warm meal after a walk around the frozen lake and cross country ski paths.

 The morning sun peered through the windows early, and you could immediately tell that the clouds had moved away during the night, and revealed the vast mountains in all there might.  It was a perfect day to hit the slopes, and learn to ski.  Although the weather in Chicago is harsh, the land is flat, and I never had the opportunity to snow ski.  While learning to ice stake came naturally, and water skiing great once I finally was able to get up on the ski’s, snow skiing was going to take more patience.  Approaching the crowded and challenging ski facility, I knew my best attempt to learn the correct way was going to be on the small hill passed earlier.  The instructor taught at the right pace, with short lessons about footwork without facing a slope; I also learned how to remove the skis on my own by observing others.  Next came time to tackle the small hill with back and forth turns down to the bottom.  After about two hours, and five falls because of insufficient foot work and balance, I improved my ability to ski and really enjoyed the experience.  I am looking forward to next time and facing one of the higher and longer slopes.  The rest of the afternoon was spent heading up the side of the mountain for beautiful views of the surrounding areas, however, the hike was cut short by the large amounts of snow covering the path signs. 

 Unfortunately Sunday was a bit more cloudy, but the day's challenge involved cross country skiing.  Although, the boots are much more flexible and comfortable, cross country skis are much longer, and thinner than downhill, meaning I feel a couple more times.  Also, Cross country involves a much more effort than downhill which has lifts bring you to the top of the hill and you allow gravity to pull you down.  Cross country requires you to climb hills while in the skis, and use your energy to travel across flat land, or in some cases, the frozen lake.  The purpose is to get exercise using your legs more than your upper body, but I resorted to using my upper body more, and felt the pain the next morning.  Traveling down the steeper, shorter paths was fun, but stopping and turning was much more challenging, which is why I ended up falling more.  The night was spent away from the mountains, in the town of Poprad at a indoor water park and spa, which was very relaxing given the bumps and bruises from the prior two days.

 On the way home, the trip was cut in half with a short stop in the city of Trenčín, about 1.5 hours from Bratislava to tour the local castle and have lunch.  Trenčín castle was built on the site in the 11th century served as a royal guard castle.  The castle, complete with narrow and steep passages, contains numerous artifacts and weapons.  The trip ended with a short train ride back to Bratislava, complete with yogurt covered strawberries, and was very enjoyable.

 Two final notes, my Slovak language learning has taken a few steps in the wrong direction.  While out at dinner and ordering pizza, decided to get some additional toppings.  Instead of ordering onions by saying cibulas, I said uhorka, or cucumbers.  The waitress wondered if I liked the pizza because of all the cucumbers that I put to the side.  Finally, while sitting down for ice cream after returning from skiing, I found RC Cola on the menu.  In all my travels across the US, Europe, Africa, and South America, I have never seen RC Cola outside Chicago and St. Bede’s gym, not even here in Bratislava, so I definitely had to enjoy one while in Central Slovakia.

Photos from High Tatras and Trencin 

Offshore Banking

With the dawn of a new month, it is time to pay the monthly rent.  As I log onto the Tatra Banka website, I am first asked for my account number, and online password.  Upon entering in my password, I am then prompted for an 8 digit code, which I must retrieve by using my small calculator like key pad, inserting my bank debit card, and entering the pin code, almost like a mini ATM without the cash.  I then am allowed to enter the site.  But before I can make any transfers, I again must use the calculator like key pad and debit card, confirming both the amount and account which I am transferring funds to, before my transaction is complete.  While the Caribbean or Switzerland account might be more popular, offshore banking in Slovakia might be more secure.

 Although the Euro is constantly making headlines for other reasons, the actual currency itself is very different from traditional US.  Coin denominations include a .01, .02, .05, .10, .20, and .50.  Unlike the US, which I have seen recent articles written to replace the $1 USD with a coin, there is no paper currency for €1 and €2 Euros as both denominations are only coins as well.  The lowest denominated bill is €5 Euro.  The amounts of paper currency include the €10, €20, €50, €100, €200, and €500 Euros.  However, what makes the paper currency most interesting is actually the different sizes and colors which represent each amount, very similar to monopoly money (color wise).  The larger the Euro amount, the greater the width and length of the note.

  When obtaining cash from an ATM (or cash station as I say in Chicago), typically in the US, the highest bill the machine will provide is $20.  However, here the machines typically provide €50 and €100 notes, and in extreme cases the €200 or €500 notes, both of which I have yet to see.  The €200 or €500 notes would be equal to $262 and $655 respectively in US Dollars.  The one other thing I notice here in Europe is when paying, anytime change is due, the cashier will put the change due on a plate or tray rather than hand over the money directly to you.

  The more difficult thing has been converting amounts back to $US using changing exchange rates to compare the price of things vs the US standards.  Currently the Euro is 31% greater, meaning every €1 is worth $1.31.  While dealing with a single currency with a fairly similar amount, the challenge becomes even greater when traveling to Hungary, where one Forint is worth .0034 Euros.  Thus 295 Forints = 1 Euro = $1.31 Dollars.  I am glad my prior role did force me to understand the numerous currencies in comparison to USD ($1USD = 19 Czech Korunas = 5.6 Danish Krones = 6.8 Swedish Kronas = .92 Swiss Francs).  At least 17 of the 27 European Union countries are currently using the Euro (Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, and Spain), so that has made things somewhat easier.  The UK is a little harder because the amounts are very comparable to NY standards, but then you must include the currency impact and the price is 57% more in USD.  However, most of the time, I prefer to let the credit card company do the conversion for me.  I compare it to a long night out when the next morning you check your credit card balance and realize the damage.

  It will be interesting to see how the currency situation here plays out and the impact on the different economies.  At least it has made travel within the continent easier, even it that means less likely to obtain passport stamps between countries within the EU.

Super Sunday

 First and ten, on the Patriots 45 yard line with the Giants trailing 17-9.  As Eli Manning drops back to pass, the picture suddenly turns black.  Did the lights go out at the Super Bowl as I quickly check my internet connection to confirm that I still have connectivity?  While I still have sound, I realize that someone at my parent’s house has turned on the television which my streaming video feed was being broadcasted over the internet to me.  Thus when someone turns on the television, I lose my picture.  To return the favor, I begin to change channels using my local remote control because I somehow still have control over that function.

 In the never ending race of innovation and changing technology, living across the pond and 4,500 miles away from Chicago, it feels as if am right at home at times.  From email and video calls with family and friends (and my parents dogs) to local and national news through the internet, it has never been easier to reconnect with people regardless of distance.  Although in some cases the distance is nice, especially not having to witness first hand the recent Illinois basketball and Chicago Blackhawks struggles.  My first month here was a little harder, as I did not have the internet at home, so my new was limited to the BBC and CNN re-runs.  And I couldn’t use my Playstation because I did not have a power converter just yet (although I did try once and almost fried the electronics).  However, one of my US DVDs did work in my European DVD player, and since I only watch this DVD during a certain time of the year, the timing was perfect…National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation.

 Once my internet was installed, I began streaming live video using my Vulkano Monsoon Solo (similar to Sling Media).  While I am not here to make sale pitches, the product is really simple and convenient (costs about $100 US).  Now I am able to broadcast Chicago TV from my parent’s home to my computer in real time to keep up with local events.  Although not HDTV quality, the picture and sound are good.  Slovakia is seven hours ahead of Chicago, which means my evening typically ends with quality mid-day television shows hosted by Jerry Springer and Maury-you are not the father-Povich, both which film a half mile away from my prior residence in Stamford, CT.  However, there are some good shows during the day which I keep up with, as well as the reruns of sports center, and I can record shows too (just hope that no one turns the TV on).  The weekend is a little different as my morning shows are typically info commercial heaven, such as the Cat Sack, Tiddy Bear (actual product which you think would have been something from Saturday Night Live), and the Ginsu Knife, which now I can slice my tomato, then walk to the balcony to cut through some sheetrock, then proceed to dice the tomato.  I can’t believe it took me so long to realize that convenience!

Cat Sack (With Mike Rowe!!)
Tiddy Bear
Ginsu Knife

 These latest technologies have really made my transition much easier, especially communicating with family and friends.  The TV is nice, however, I would prefer to explore the area of Slovakia and neighboring countries rather than stay indoors, especially now that the cold front which cause a lot of problems (more so in the neighboring countries) is moving and spring is slowly approaching.  I am in the process of planning my next trip to central Slovakia in the beautiful High Tatras Mountains with many castles and activities, which I am really excited for.

 Given the cold weather, these are some photo's from late fall, but I will soon have new ones to post from my next adventures here.

Opera House

Absolute Amsterdam

Hotel de Lantaerne?

The hallway stairs were extremely steep and narrow, and each stair the sound of decaying wood cracked louder with every step.  No, I was not in a place which most people associate with Amsterdam, but rather my hotel.  From the Presidential Suite in Prague (because of my prior hotel status which I no longer have), to the Copacabana Beach Marriott, this stay was going to be different.  No phone, no lights, not a single luxury. Like Robinson Crusoe, as primitive as can be.  There were lights, and a TV with cable, but my wireless did not want to work.  Although the bathroom was odd, because it contained no tub, just a tiled floor, with a toilet, sink, shower head, and drain.  It did not help that the floor was not sloped towards the drain so I am not sure why they included a shower curtain as the water spread anywhere once on the floor.  Also, I booked my reservation at Hotel de Lantaerne as recommended by my friend because of the nice location, however, the name of the hotel on the outside was Hotel Marnix (unless my Dutch is really that bad), and my room was on the other side of the street after the canal apart from the reception area, which I found strange.  But I was not here to spend the weekend in the hotel, only to explore the sites and sounds of Amsterdam while wishing a friend good luck on her and her boyfriends three year journey to San Diego. 

As part of a mini IBM Corporate Service Corps reunion, Friday night I met my friend Luan and her boyfriend Bart at their going away party (ski gear theme) in Amsterdam which they were preparing to depart for San Diego to begin a three year assignment.  Francesco and his wife were also able to fly up from Italy to join us, so it was a really nice time, and I wish the others could have joined.  I continued to show that I am the worst dancer of the group, with very little improvement over last year. 

Red Light District

Saturday morning began with some rain which unfortunately continued for most of the weekend, however, there were times that it held off and I was able to get some nice pictures.  Now I sure that the first two things that come to people’s minds when they hear Amsterdam are not canals and tulips, however, the city has many of them.  Wondering through the streets and bridges over the canals, you notice the beautiful architecture of the buildings and churches, along with numerous house boats docked on the sides.  As I continue to wander down the main shopping streets, I constantly come across the aroma of burning cannabis from bakery shops, coffee stores, and, in some cases, random people walking down the street.  Upon crossing the bridge just past Oude Kerk, one of the largest churches in the city, while passing through a small connecting street, I am initially startled by a half naked woman behind a glass door taping on the window.  I have just entered the infamous red light district, packed with tourists from all different customs, ages, and sexes.  Walking down the street you will find numerous shops and women in windows, and next pass a normal house with a kitchen table in the window.  The night ended with a sushi dinner, which the rolls were more comparable to wraps, and I had to check with the chef if I should use the chop sticks to pick apart the meal or just use my hand to eat as a traditional wrap.  He confirmed that I should eat like a traditional wrap, so I did not have to attempt to demonstrate any chop stick skills by picking up an oversized wrap of spicy tuna and rice. 

Bicycle Garage

Sunday morning consisted of a boat tour through the canals, a visit to the Anne Frank house, and as I typically do while on the road in a new country, a trip to the grocery store early Sunday.  I was astonished at the Doritos, Ben & Jerry’s, and Kellogg’s cereal selection, which is non-extent here in Slovakia.  Unfortunately I had no room left in my backpack for anything to bring back.  The one thing I did not get the chance to do was bike through the city.  Even in winter, the main source of transportation is bicycles, and you constantly hear the sound of bike bells warning that someone is approaching.  Amsterdam seems to have something for everyone, and I would like to return in the summer time to enjoy some of the things that I was not able to experience.

It has been a while since I last blogged; it was a crazy couple of weeks as it was my first management reviews with 21 employees, which required write-ups, and hour long discussions which went well, and yesterday presented to the 400 people in the center on my Africa Corporate Service Corps experience.

Amsterdam Photos 

Stastny Novy Rok (or Happy New Year)

  After eight bags of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, two bags of Hershey Kisses, one bag of Rolos, seven bags of rice, six guacamole seasoning packages, Hershey’s Chocolate syrup (if it was acceptable by society I would drink shots of it straight out of the container), Ritz crackers (I need something to go with my cream cheese), a power converter, oatmeal and cream of wheat (both of which I know sound odd on this list), a chin-up bar and rub weight bands, I wondered where I would find space to pack my clothes.  But while a week of Portillo’s beef sandwiches may have been worth the possibility of a fine for bringing perishable foods into foreign countries, airline notification of luggage which contained dry ice is required for safety reasons, thus I had room for my remaining gifts and clothes.  Although my trip was short, and there were a lot of people I did not get a chance to see, it was good to spend time with my friends and family during the holidays, and I look forward to welcoming them to Bratislava once the summer arrives.

  The flight home to Bratislava through Zurich was easy, however, I failed to get that coveted passport stamp at Swiss customs.  With a calm and confident approach to the window, I initially just gave just my passport to the agent, but quickly cracked when asked why I was returning, and provided my Slovak residence card after being told again that I should always provide my card, thus receiving no stamp.  While layovers in airports are nothing new to me, layovers in airports which the local currency has dramatically strengthened over both the US dollar and Euro are.  Small cups of coffee and tea started at $6.50 US, and the BK value meals were $14, which the strength of the Swiss Franc has really affected tourism and ski resorts throughout Switzerland.

  Returning to Bratislava, it is now time to start my New Years Resolutions.  First, and foremost is to stop going to American fast food establishments here in Europe.  Second is my P90x exercise video, which on the first video, I threw up 30 minutes into the routine after trying to keep pace without stopping (note to self, do not eat before hand), and on the third, I broke the weight band.  I am looking forward to beginning the new year here and enjoying all the different seasons and things to do while living here, and we will see how well I do keeping my resolutions (which I already missed to of the exercises).  Sorry, unfortunately no photos on this post...next time